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TOPIC: Barge project

Barge project 23 Mar 2017 21:59 #88148

Hi Joan,

I used Technautics for 12 custom shaped, clamp-in windows, vertical sliding, horizontal sliding and frosted. I made individual hardboard templates for each aperture and they created the windows which haven't leaked a drop in nearly twenty years. Glass is single glazed and toughened but talk to them if you require double glazing. I'm sure they can arrange.
If at all possible for you I would suggest visiting them in Burnham on Crouch and talking through your project.

Best
Derek
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Barge project 23 Mar 2017 15:22 #88126

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Hi all
Can anyone help me out here? I have come across a company called Technautics Marine Windows,has anyone had any dealings with them if so what's your opinion ? As I am thinking of using their services to make my windows
J

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Barge project 23 Mar 2017 15:18 #88125

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Wow that was some project its fantastic.
Mine is minuscule in comparison.
J

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Barge project 22 Mar 2017 07:04 #88052

Joan,

You might find some useful pictures from my project at www.luxe-motor-kei.co.uk

Good luck with your vessel.

Colin Stone
KEI
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Barge project 22 Mar 2017 06:37 #88051

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Hi Ann
Sorry for calling you Howard
It all sounds impressive. I would love to see your pictures. I have the same concerns as far as insulation and space goes, plus I don't particularly want a wooden looking interior. I too want a light airy fresh look and feel. I know I have a long way to go but Im determined to get it right. What thickness of insulation did you use above the wasterline? Is this where you used the 10mm Areogel ? If so did you onlyvuse one layer.? Was it affective? Is it on a roll or is it boarding? Also who supplies it?
I think that's enough questions for now. I must get ready for work.
J

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Barge project 21 Mar 2017 19:44 #88041

Hi J,

The thing that was not easy was that we (long story which I won’t go into) were buying new windows which were not available at the time most sensible to install them so provision had to be made for fitting later on.
I will send you some progress photos separately.
My aim was house quality insulation levels and I am an architect so used some products more often found in building.
I opted for various kinds of insulation each of which depended on the amount of depth available in different areas of the barge. But the first layer was the spray foam.

Head room on our barge was not much more than 1.9m excluding some 50 x 50 battens and polystyrene between and 12mm plywood sheathing. We had stripped out the existing finish which was a kind of hardboard which looked like ceiling tiles. I added below the plywood a layer of rather pricey insulation 10mm thick called Aerogel. www.thermoblok.co.uk This is unpleasant material to handle though is does not say it is damaging but a very good mask is needed. It is dusty and leaves a film on your fingers which feels water-resistant. I am fairly sure we screwed it up. Once up it was protected by cheap polythene until the ceiling board finish was applied.

After the spraying was complete (and the original vertical wooden battens were retained) the electrical cables went in ( I could ask what these were because they did not look like ordinary house cable but were in a HD clear plastic shell) as did plastic central heating piping and H & CW pipes in long lengths and access hatches at critical points. Then more insulation below the wall finish. I used a wall surface material called Fermacell because we did not want a traditional woody look to the inside - more painted & light and contemporary. Now I know Balliol looked askance at it but it is water resistant, a good sound insulator, very thermally and moisture stable and quite tough. I believe it is manufactured in Germany and is a gypsum fibre board. The proof was that there was not a single hairline crack after the barge was towed back completed from the Solent to Honfleur followed by a very hairy but short rocking as we exited Honfleur into the Seine. The down side is it is not cheap, and it is very heavy and so there was a need to use half size boards to get them aboard (1200 x 1200) so a lot more jointing. The joints are glued with a special glue which is allowed to go off and then cut off clean. Working with it is fine but special screws are essential. I then filled the screw holes and smoothed the joints. ( lots of sanding, refilling and resanding) A skim by a professional would have been easier. They make a finishing coat product but I actually used a good waterproof floor tile adhesive ready mixed in tubs which worked really well.

Back to the professional spray insulation. Its fine on plain surfaces but there are struts and nooks and crannies on barges which don’t get sprayed. I bought (over the process) a couple of spray guns about £25 each which screw to the expanding foam cans. These make the foam much more controllable but even with the special cleaner are a devil to keep working. Undercut surfaces were the worst because the foam falls off so where space was very tight I used the sheets of green grey insulation foam you put under laminate floors 3/4mm thick in two layers, taped on and foamed at the joints. This seems to work well and the I used 25mm Celotex to do the same thing where there was more room. Just need to be super conscientious because you don’t want condensation behind anywhere causing damp or rusting. Don’t try to spray if the surfaces are damp it just falls off the next day. Dry it off with kitchen roll first.

All for now.

Remind me if I forget to send the photos.

Good luck

Ann




> On 20 Mar 2017, at 04:41, DBA Forum (B) - J Eagles wrote:
>
>
> Hi Howard
> I am very interested in how you accomplished it a lot of my issues are to do with making a decision on what to use and in what order to do things. I'm looking at battening at the moment as that will be the next thing to do once I've painted and greased my old lady.
> Then there's the electrics and plumbing. Then what heating system and water storage I'll need the list is endless but I want to get it right
> How long did it take you in the end and how much did you do yourself?
> I want to do arc much as possible myself
> Do you have any pictures of your journey in the restoration and is there anything that you would do differently?
> J
>
>

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Barge project 21 Mar 2017 17:40 #88032

Yes, we used them on our Euroships Tjalk new build. They seem to do exactly what they claim to and work in quite modest sunshine conditions. I'm sure this helps with a boat which is otherwise rather too tightly sealed against drafts etc.

Richard

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Hi All

I'm looking at roof vents and I'm interested in the solar type does anyone have any personal experience with them? If you do then what do you think of them?
Thanks
J

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Barge project 21 Mar 2017 09:48 #87990

Hello Joan,

Some recent discussion here : www.barges.org/forum/barges/19638-ventilators-what-and-where-to-buy

Best Wishes
Andy

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Best Wishes
Andy Soper
mv Neeltje
Coookham

Barge project 21 Mar 2017 02:49 #87977

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Hi All

I'm looking at roof vents and I'm interested in the solar type does anyone have any personal experience with them? If you do then what do you think of them?
Thanks
J

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Barge project 20 Mar 2017 08:02 #87911

Hi J
Thanks for the reply. I realised now that I got the wrong end of the stick so to speak.
I am aware of waxing inside the hull but wrongly thought the greasing was something that would be applied to the outside of the hull. It now gets me to thinking that is it such a daft notion after all?
It's never going to flake or peel off, and would offer the same benefits as waxing the inside.
T.

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Barge project 20 Mar 2017 05:41 #87908

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Hi Howard
I am very interested in how you accomplished it a lot of my issues are to do with making a decision on what to use and in what order to do things. I'm looking at battening at the moment as that will be the next thing to do once I've painted and greased my old lady.
Then there's the electrics and plumbing. Then what heating system and water storage I'll need the list is endless but I want to get it right
How long did it take you in the end and how much did you do yourself?
I want to do arc much as possible myself
Do you have any pictures of your journey in the restoration and is there anything that you would do differently?
J

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Barge project 20 Mar 2017 03:34 #87907

J Eagles wrote: Hi Tony
Balliol informed me that grease is excellent at what it does, however it dries to a waxy surface to not good in areas that you're likely to come into contact with like the engine room for example. There is another chat called barge project that i started before this one and all that information is is on the first page of that one, you'll find out more there

J


Hello Joan,

I hadn't noticed your thread had become threads. I have now amalgamated them.

Bob
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Barge project 20 Mar 2017 01:22 #87903

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Hi Tony
Balliol informed me that grease is excellent at what it does, however it dries to a waxy surface to not good in areas that you're likely to come into contact with like the engine room for example. There is another chat called barge project that i started before this one and all that information is is on the first page of that one, you'll find out more there

J
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Barge project 19 Mar 2017 22:36 #87899

Jusr to back track on the greasing the hull message, I may have missed something here... What's the reason for not doing the areas in contact with the engine? I am dry docking our barge this summer with a view to re blacking, think you may have sown a seed regarding greasing.
Tony
Twee Gebroeders

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Barge project 19 Mar 2017 13:41 #87885

I would not want to leave any holes that go through to the space between the overplate and original hull. Both air and water can get in there and end up rusting away both plates from inside that cavity.

Ideally you would weld up the holes.
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Barge project 19 Mar 2017 09:18 #87873

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Hi
some of rivets have popped out therefore leaving a hole. She is has been totally over plated so is this okay or will I need to have those holes filled if so with what?
Also will I need to replace the seacocks that have been removed and sealed up? I am being told that I don't need any if this is the case then why would they have been there in the first place?
Thanks
J

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Barge project 18 Mar 2017 15:35 #87847

Hello,

We completed our renovation a year ago - we had bought the barge off the insurers after she sank in May 2013 and undertook a lot more work than originally intended! Firstly can I recommend the services of Balliol Fowden, barge surveyor, worth every penny for his advice over some 3 or 4 visits as work progressed, and his knowledge of materials and suppliers. The areas of the bilges which were not to be later spray insulated were treated with Dutch wax on his advice (will try to find where this was sourced from) and the areas being insulated were over-painted with new bitumen paint on top of the existing bitumen. This had had all loose material removed and then vacuumed and brushed.
I wanted to spray the boat with Icynene Foam Forte which has greener credentials but the specialists were unhelpful and in the end we used closed cell polyurethane spray foam 50mm thick BASF Elastospray1629/1 (Ultimate Coatings Ltd Swindon did the work). The challenge comes in the areas which are not easy to spray like braces, but which in cold weather would still drip with condensation. These were down to me and lots of cans of expanding foam. I can tell you in detail what I did if you email. (This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.)
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Barge project 15 Mar 2017 09:59 #87645

Just scrape off anything loose, vacuum out and paste on the fat liberally. Don't forget the Owatrol along the frame and rivet lines, or everywhere if you prefer.

Balliol.
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Barge project 15 Mar 2017 04:32 #87634

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Morning All
I have bought 18kg of hull grease. My intention is to apply it every surface below the waterline (except where the engine is and other areas that I will be in contact with) as advised. What I want to know does all surfaces need to be paint/ bitumen free before applying. I ask because there are some very sound rust free surfaces that have either paint or bitumen on them and I don't want to do any unnecessary work if I don't need to. Obviously if I have to remove it then I will

Thanks
J

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Barge project 13 Mar 2017 04:11 #87504

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Hi Balliol
The marina informed that they removed and capped off the seacocks by request of the previous owner, this is why you cannot see them.
All the boarding will be removed and replaced ( I'm in the process of doing that now). I will be rebuilding it all out of fire resistant material after cleaning and painting the whole area. This is the area that I intend to paint using the coloured bitumen type paint on. I am assuming that this Will be suitable for this area.
Will the paint be suitable to use on the new boarding ?
The bulkheads are also constructed of the same timber that you see in the previous picture which will be replaced with fire retardant boarding and painted.
J

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