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TOPIC: Plans for heating

Plans for heating 07 Sep 2017 22:16 #94926

I had a Rayburn on a narrow boat and it worked OK but I wouldn't bother with one nowadays because it took ages to warm up and more importantly the back boiler was quite high, this meant that to get it to work radiators it would need a pump running continuously, if you use a more conventional stove you can possibly get it to circulate without the pump, if you do try this then get some advice first, its great when it works but a pain when it doesn't. Personally I would always have a multifuel / woodburner of some sort as when everything else fails you can always burn the furniture to keep warm. As for more sophisticated methods others will have more knowledge than me.
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Plans for heating 07 Sep 2017 16:13 #94920

Hi

Have you considered a Reflek heater they run on diesel or can be adjusted for kerosine, no moving parts, very robust. Can be configured as space heaters or with heating coil for hot water and radiators, the latter will require a circulation pump. As for kerosene for diesel engine fuel is not a problem provided you mix 1:100 10 w oil to keep the injection pumps lubricated. My two Glennifer and Lister Freedom chug away on it no problems so far.

Beet

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Plans for heating 06 Sep 2017 09:46 #94892

  • Paul Hayes
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Hi Colin

I was assuming (I know - never assume) as I said "Red" it would be a heating tank.
However, in the Polar regions this is exactly what they do to run generators, tractors etc. It is of course pre mixed, I cannot remember the name but is something like Articpower.
Many older engines like some Listers would happily run on either diesel or paraffin. Tractors used to be started on petrol then turned over to TVO (Tractor Vehical Only) when warm.
I have just found this
www.otk41.ru/en/articles/dizelnoe_toplivo_letnee_zimnee_arkticheskoe/
I'm sure someone out there has a higher technical knowledge and may comment.

Paul

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Plans for heating 06 Sep 2017 09:29 #94890

Paul,

A Q. If the "domestic" tank is shared with a diesel generator and CH boiler, what is the effect of the diesel/kero mix on a diesel engine?

Colin Stone
KEI
www.luxe-motor-kei.co.uk

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Plans for heating 06 Sep 2017 08:33 #94886

  • Paul Hayes
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Hi Colin
Flue heat exchangers are OK if the wood burner is run at full capacity, very hot, which is generally OK in a large room, but most boat stoves run very much "shut down" and the flue temperature reduces. Cool it further and Creosote can condense inside the flue and run back into the combustion chamber, not really a good idea. We (work) used to have a small swimming pool nest to a saw mill, and their waste came very cheap, but flue condensation was a problem in the summer, when the boiler was on low load.

You are right about changing the pressure and nozzle on a pressure jet burner to burn "Red" Heating oil (35 second), but this will not be available on a Mikoni, Ebershpacher, or similar boiler.
Another way to get ovr the preheat problem is to use "Red" and for each 100 litres add a 20 litre drum of Kero (Petrole in France) to the tank. The burner will thank you and run much cleaner, and quieter.
As you will probably remember we have discussed this at length on the forum, so anyone new can use the "search" and find it.

Best Regards

Paul

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Plans for heating 05 Sep 2017 21:52 #94879

We've got solid fuel, with a Portaway marine stove, specifically designed for inland boats. In addition we have an Alde 3010 gas/electric boiler and convector heaters. Works well on shorepower/gas or gas only, but in the depths of winter fuel use would be high if it was the main source of heating. I chose this system as it doesn't use much electricity compared to a pressure jet boiler, and is also maintenance free., We use 19kg gas bottles, this may not be the ideal system for mainland Europe.
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Plans for heating 05 Sep 2017 14:32 #94869

Agree 2 heating systems. And now some clever stove water heating using a stove flue heat exchanger rather than a back boiler. Charnwood have them for some of their Cove stoves.

Under floor heating is particularly suited for heat pump systems extracting the water in which we sit. A neighbour's house in Oxford is heated by the Thames. But it still needs elec energy and even with the best COP today still requires around 4kw for a 20kw heating system.
Bilge access may be an issue, especially when you need to cut a hole to get at something.

Domestic boiler fine, although most specify quite a large diameter flue compared with a marine boiler eg Kabola 90mm. Also, depending where you are a kerosene tank for the boiler. With simple rejet and adjustment, a burner will run on diesel but a burner pre heater is probably required for smaller capacity burners - 20kw or so. This is to reduce the viscosity of the diesel for the smaller burner nozzle aperture.

Colin Stone
KEI
www.luxe-motor-kei.co.uk
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Plans for heating 05 Sep 2017 13:59 #94865

  • Paul Hayes
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I would suggest two forms of heating, say diesel boiler +rads then a solid fuel stove.

Simple reason, sometime one or other will break down, and a back up is easier, plus I like to sit feet up in front of a wood burner, knowing that in the morning the time switch will bring on the central heating before it is time to make the first cuppa of the day., but that is very much personal preference.
Some people like an oil fired Rayburn, but they do not "float my boat" personal liking really.
Underfloor, no I would not go that way, it's great for school classrooms, village halls etc. but not responsive enough for the changes of external conditions that affect the temperature on a boat. Even in the winter if the sun comes out for an hour the temperature in a boat can rise two or three degrees, you need a system that can respond to that change relatively quickly, room stat controlling rads. Conversely if the wind is from the North the effect can be a couple of degrees lower, so again the system needs to react quickly..
Plenty of insulation under the floorboards. is a must. But remember to ventilate the bilge.
Hope this helps
Paul Hayes
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Plans for heating 05 Sep 2017 12:45 #94860

Hi Becca,
We would have loved underfloor heating, but thought it would restrict access to the bilges. Anyone who has gone this route can comment on this.
We went for a Somy (ACV) diesel boiler to radiators and a hot water tank. All works great, but we should have insulated out floor more, since it can be a bit cool. Still have to do the living room, so will put that right there.
If doing it now, we'd fit a domestic oil boiler, which some other bargees have done.
Good luck,
Lorna
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Plans for heating 05 Sep 2017 12:29 #94859

  • Rebecca Bailes
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Hello everyone,

I have recently bought an old barge and we are in the process of converting it to be a liveaboard.

My question is on heating - what styles of heating can people recommend? Has anyone installed underfloor heating and has found it to be highly beneficial or is it considered to be more of a wasted expense? Has anyone found and installed an old rayburn to be their cooker/ heating hub and are their better alternatives to the rayburn, more suited to smaller spaces?

Any advice gratefully received.

Thank you,
Becca

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